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marzo 20, 2008 on 11:30 am | In VIAGGI & TURISMO | No Comments

C`ė una Sicilia diversa oltre gli stretti confini di mare, sole, cannoli e carrettini. Come una donna misteriosa, la Sicilia sorprende il viaggiatore con un particolare sempre nuovo: piú la scopri, piú ti accorgi di non conoscerla.

Chiudiamo gli occhi e raggiungiamo l´area nord orientale dell´isola. Siamo nell´ultimo tratto dell´Appennino italiano, quello siculo, formato dai monti Nebrodi, Peloritani e Madonie.

dove sono i Nebrodi
dove sono i Nebrodi

Da dove deriva il nome Nebrodi? Da Nebros, ovvero cerbiatto, testimonianza di un tempo in cui il territorio della piú vasta area protetta siciliana presentava una fauna molto ricca: cervi, daini, orsi, caprioli ad esempio. Le tipicità dei Nebrodi sono: boschi sconfinati, animali allo stato selvatico, sopravvissute al progresso veloce. Il parco dei Nebrodi ė racchiuso dai confini delle provincie siciliane di Messina, Catania ed Enna: il mare Tirreno a nord, le montagne delle Madonie ad ovest, il monte Etna a sud ed i monti Peloritani ad est. E´ il parco regionale piú grande di Sicilia con 85 mila ettari di estensione. Uno dei periodi migliori per visitarlo ė quello autunnale, quando i boschi di faggio, tasso, agrifoglio, biancospino, euforbia, mirto, lentisco, ginestra, corbezzolo, sughero e leccio cambiano “pelle”: dal verde si vestono di rosso, arancio, giallo. Il clima dei Un ambiente ricco di vallate, fiumare e zone umide che dà riparo ad una fauna diversificata dove troviamo il gatto selvatico, la martora, il ghiro, le aquile reali.

bosco innevato
bosco dei Nebrodi innevato

I Nebrodi, diversamente dalla zona costiera siciliana, sono caratterizzati da inverni lunghi e rigidi ed estati calde ma non troppo. La temperatura si aggira sui 10° – 12° nei periodi invernali con piovosità che varia dai 600 mm ai 1400 mm annui. La neve e la nebbia sono molto frequenti. Il lento deflusso della pioggia verso valle e la condensazione della stessa determinano ad esempio la permanenza dell’ albero del faggio che, grazie alle sue foglie, riesce a trattenere l’ acqua la poiana, il gheppio, il nibbio, il lanario, il falco pellegrino, la folaga, il merlo, il martin pescatore, la coturnice, l’ upupa, il corvo imperiale, l’ airone, l’ istrice i grifoni, che nidificano nelle cosiddette Rocche del Crasto.

rocche del crasto
Rocche del Crasto

Tra gli animali rettili troviamo la testuggine, mentre tra gli anfibi abbiamo la rana verde e il discoglosso.

Nei boschi vivono, allo stato naturale, il cavallo sanfratellano e il suino nero dei Nebrodi. Il suino nero dei Nebrodi ė allevato allo stato brado, un maialino autoctono di piccola taglia simile al cinghiale che si adatta a temperature molto fredde. La carne ė da gustare fresca, sulla griglia. Il cavallo sanfratellano ė frutto di incroci tra cavalli inglesi ed orientali a partire dal 1925, le sue caratteristiche sono quelle di avere un mantello nero, molta resistenza alla fatica, intelligenza e docilità. Anche lui si ė adattato al freddo invernale di queste montagne. Da notare che dall’ incrocio tra la cavalla sanfratellana e l’asino ragusano nasce il mulo siciliano…

cavallo sanfratellano
cavallo sanfratellano

Le montagne del parco hanno una forma “dolce” in presenza di rocce argilloso-arenacee come il Monte Soro, la vetta piú alta con i suoi 1847 metri sul livello del mare, o “aspro” in presenza di rocce calcaree come quelle che costituiscono le Rocche del Crasto (1315 metri di altezza). La vegetazione di querce e faggi ė la dominante nel parco. Per conoscere i Nebrodi esistono percorsi di diversa difficoltà, ve ne proponiamo alcuni:

Percorso n.1 – Dalla strada statale 289 Cesarò – San Fratello , all´altezza del rifugio Villa Miraglia, ė facile raggiungere la cima del monte Soro, da cui si può ammirare un panorama incantevole nelle belle giornate: le isole Eolie a nord, il profilo del monte Etna a sud.

isola di Salina
Isola di Salina

Percorso n.2 – La dorsale dei Nebrodi: 70 km di trekking che si possono concludere in tre giorni percorrendo le zone piú alte del parco: da serra Merio sulla strada statale 117 in territorio di Mistretta sino a Portella Dagara in territorio di Floresta Questo percorso permette di vedere il lago Quattrocchi, il lago Maulazzo, il lago del Biviere, il bosco di Mangalavite, la cascata d´acqua del Catafurco nel territorio di Galati Mamertino, le cui acque precipitano da un´altezza di circa trenta metri all´interno di una cavità chiamata “Marmitta dei giganti”, il lago Trearie, accessibile da Floresta e da Maniace, che con i suoi 1435 metri rappresenta la zona umida piú alta della Sicilia.

Lago Trearieisola di Salina
isola di Salina

Ma oltre l’aspetto naturalistico, anche quello umano è molto interessante: l’uomo ha creato un paesaggio rurale costruito in armonia con l´ambiente; la pietra locale ad esempio, squadrata a blocchi, è stata edificata per costruire città, monumenti e decorazioni di case. I torrenti Caronia e Rosmarino mostrano le arcate di ponti romani. Normanni sono il castello di Baronia e l´abbazia di S. Filippo di Fragalà. Impedibile la visita alla ducea di Nelson donata da Ferdinando III di Borbone all´ammiraglio Nelson nel 1799.

Interessanti le ceramiche di Santo Stefano di Camastra. L´attività principale dei Nebrodi è comunque sicuramente l´allevamento del bestiame insieme alla produzione di formaggi e carne. E la cucina dei Nebrodi è sicuramente da provare, con la provola dei Nebrodi, dalla classica forma a pera da appendere legata, con il canestraio, altro formaggio dolce o piccante, con la ricotta di latte di pecora o di vacca, da mangiare fresca col siero, stagionata o infornata. Altro gusto dei Nebrodi è sicuramente da ricercare nelle carni: dal suino nero si ottiene il salame di suino ma anche il salame di Sant´Angelo, o la fellata condita con il peperoncino e il capocollo.

fungo porcino
fungo porcino

Nei locali tradizionali dei Nebrodi, le cosiddette “baracche” dovete provare l´antipasto del contadino: salame, pecorino e fave crude da accompagnare con fette di pane casereccio e le conserve di funghi, pomodoro e melanzane. Come primi piatti ci sono i caserecci fatti a mano con sugo di carne di maiale conditi con pecorino o ricotta infornata e la pasta “´ncaciata”(pasta con broccoletti e formaggio). I secondi piatti presentano il castrato (coste di agnello), il maialino (salsiccia, involtino, costoletta, puntine) ed il capretto al forno o fritto con patate. I contorni sono ricchi i funghi di bosco i Nebrodi sono il paradiso per gli amanti dei funghi) e la provola fritta. E un vero trionfo è la pasticceria, come le paste di pistacchio di Bronte, i buccellati (biscotti farciti di fichi, noci, pinoli e arancia).

cascata del Catafurco
cascata del Catafurco

Come arrivare sui Nebrodi.

Per chi proviene dall´autostrada Messina – Palermo A20 o dalla strada statale 113 si possono prendere le uscite di Capo d´Orlando, Sant´Agata di Militello, Santo Stefano di Camastra. Provenendo da Catania bisogna prendere la strada statale 120. Da Taormina di deve percorrere l´autostrada in direzione Messina e da qui immettersi nell´autostrada Messina – Palermo ed uscire nelle direzioni già citate. Le strade che attraversano il parco dei Nebrodi sono la statale 117, che costeggia la parte ovest nel tratto Santo Stefano di Camastra – Nicosia; la provinciale messinese 68, Caronia – Capizzi; la strada statale 289 Sant´Agata di Militello – Cesarò; la strada statale 116 Capo d´Orlando – Randazzo.

In treno, da Palermo o da Messina, le fermate che vi consigliamo sono Sant´Agata di Militello e Capo d´Orlando.

INDIRIZZI UTILI

Ente Parco Naturale dei Nebrodi tel. 0921.333015
Centro Visite tel. 0957732061
Castello di Nelson Centro Visite tel. 095690018

INFO WEB

www.parcodeinebrodi.it
www.siciliaparchi.com
www.prolocomaniace.it

DOVE MANGIARE

Rifugio Villa Miraglia
Tel. 095/7732133
www.villamiraglia.it

Ristorante La Fornace
San Marco d’ Alunzio (Messina)
Tel. 0941.797297

Agriturismo “La collina dei Nebrodi”
Contrada Asa
98070 S. Marco d’Alunzio (ME)
Tel 0941/797622
Cell. 333/1143981
Email: info@lacollinadeinebrodi.it
Sito web: www.lacollinadeinebrodi.it

Agriturismo “Il vento dei tre santi”
Contrada Scalonazzo
San Fratello (Messina)
Tel 0941/726027
Cell. 347/5540911
Email: piscanti@libero.it

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